(Posted 04th December 2025)
Courtesy of Charlotte Beauvoisin, Publisher of ‘Diary of a Muzungu’
From Kampala to Karamoja
I flick through my notebook — the eponymous Diary of a Muzungu.
How far we have travelled in one week! From Kampala, we drove to Jinja, Soroti, Amuria,
Abim, Kotido, Kaabong and Moroto.
Matoke plantations gave way to sugarcane, maize and rice fields, and roads lined with white
sticks of cassava drying in the sun. Further north, roadside vegetable stands grew sparse;
around Soroti, I scented orange trees. We had arrived in a region plentiful with sorghum —
one of the few crops that can survive the semi-arid landscape of Karamoja.
We saw cows.
We saw “black bananas.” (Listen to the podcast to find out what they are!)
Measuring a journey
But how do you measure a journey? Surely the kilometres don’t count for much. It’s the
intimate moments with the Karamojong girls I will treasure most — sheltering from a sudden
rainstorm under shared blankets, giggling in our togetherness, surrounded by pitch-black
darkness and distant rumbling thunder. No glossy brochure can promise this.
Welcome (or tolerated?)
This week I learned the value of being tolerated rather than welcomed. (I hesitate to say we
were accepted — I’m not sure we could go that far.) A few hours with a traditional
community is a privilege. I was happy there was no performance, no excessive handshakes
or grand welcoming gestures. The simplicity in the way we were tolerated was far more
meaningful than any pose.
I feel honoured that people allowed us into their space — we ‘townies’ with our gadgets, our
bulging bags, our modern footwear, our questions, our different standards and expectations.
This experience wouldn’t have been possible without Kara-Tunga Tours, whose community
guides connect visitors and Karamojong families in a sensitive, respectful way. Their
understanding of both cultures allows these genuine exchanges to happen — without
intrusion.
The paradox of tourism
It was a demanding week too. Fresh from a sustainable tourism training workshop, my head
was full of dos and don’ts, and of ‘best practice’. The reality is: we are all still learning –
travellers, guides and communities alike.
How can you expose a remote community to modern life and not expect them to change?
How can tourism truly be developed in everyone’s best interest? Is that even possible?
What is my role in promoting all of this? “Should I even be here?” I asked myself more than
once.
These questions don't have easy answers and they’re exactly the kind that responsible tour
operators like Kara-Tunga continue to ask themselves.
The kraal and the cows
One evening, on the plains below Mount Moroto, we waited for the young boys to bring the
livestock into the sanctuary of the thorn-fenced kraal.
“How many cattle do you have? I mean — how do you know when all the animals are safely
back in the kraal?”
“We don’t know how many we have, but we know when they are all back.”
I laughed inwardly at my European mindset of numbers and facts. (We think we are so smart
— but are we?)
I loved how refreshingly different this young Karamojong man’s worldview was. Checking his
cattle relied on his memory of each cow’s name, derived from the colour of its coat and its
relations within the herd. The boys would know if the grey cow was missing — and whether
her calf was in the kraal.
A night in the manyatta
The concept of personal space is very different too. During our night in the manyatta, we sat
in the dark listening to the men’s chant-like songs. It was hypnotic.
I squeezed into position on the wooden bench next to one of the men. As I sat down, I
accidentally banged his leg — but he didn’t flinch, nor did he say anything. (We Brits would
fuss around, apologising and making excuses.)
Here, community and shared experience are everything. What a tonic to be together —
nameless and faceless, just living the same moment. No screens, no comments, no
expectations.
Coming soon from Karamoja
If you’ve enjoyed this glimpse into life in Karamoja, listen out for upcoming podcast episodes
that bring the region’s spirit to life — through sound, song and unforgettable characters:
– A visit to Nakapelimoru, East Africa’s biggest traditional village near Kotido, with
“Engole” Joseph Siya Woto — a warm, charming storyteller (and former cattle
rustler!)
– A conversation with Abraham: memories of his childhood guarding cattle in the kraal
— and the near-death experience that changed his life.
– The birdlife of Karamoja: the muzungu adds several new ticks to her life list,
discovering species that thrive only in this untamed corner of Uganda.
= Bloodletting a cow on the plains near Moroto — witnessing a traditional practice
essential to the survival of nomadic communities.
– The chant-like singing of the Karamojong, echoing through the manyatta beneath a
thunderous night sky.
Follow The East Africa Travel Podcast by Diary of a Muzungu for more stories from
Uganda and beyond.
For community-based safaris and cultural experiences, explore Kara-Tunga Tours,
pioneers of responsible tourism in Karamoja.
Click here for access to the original article: https://www.muzungubloguganda.com/adventure/karamoja-community-tourism-uganda-kara-tunga-tours/
