(Posted 14th December 2024)
Courtesy of Charlotte Beauvoisin and Diary of a Muzungu / Pictures by Charlotte Beauvoisin
I confess: I love Kampala!
For all its crazy craziness, its frequently terrible traffic, the pollution and noise, the insane way in which charismatic old buildings are pulled down to be replaced by faceless malls, there’s something so exciting about this city.
I miss Kampala. I always get excited when I approach the city limits again. (I also feel my stress levels rise. And quickly!) But as a Kampala resident for ten years, it has forever secured a place in my heart.
Uganda’s capital city has a mind-boggling list of restaurants, café’s, bars, nightclubs, hotels and more, but if you’re coming to the Pearl of Africa to track gorillas or chimps or go on safari, it’s likely you will be swiftly taken upcountry. That’s usually for good reason: if you’re a nature lover, you won’t want to get stuck in traffic gridlock during your precious few days in the country. However! If you really want a feel for what makes the country buzz, bypass Kampala and you’ll miss a big chunk of “the Uganda experience.”
Kampala’s seven historic hills now spread to twenty-one hills. The resident population of two million doubles daily with commuters. Despite the fast pace of development, climb to the top of any hill and you will be rewarded by refreshing views of Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater lake. It’s no surprise that houses with good views of the lake command higher rent.
Despite the rush to modernise, Kampala preserves its rich Buganda kingdom heritage. The British colonial influence is reflected in the city’s architecture, street names and historical sites.
Kampala’s concentration of government, banking and commercial institutions draws
investors and jobseekers from across the world. This cosmopolitan hub’s languages and
cuisines reflect the country’s 50+ tribes, its regional neighbours, refugee communities,
international tourists and expats.
Signpost: ‘swimming at your own risk’Munyonyo, Lake Victoria. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin
These are some of the top attractions that visitors to Kampala always love:
Ndere Cultural Centre is my number one recommendation for all visitors: as excellent
as ever, this evening dance show is a timeless celebration of Ugandan and African
culture. Read my review of the Ndere show.
Uganda Museum: you’ll be amazed at Uganda’s diverse cultural heritage illustrated
through artefacts, exhibits and informative guides at this small museum on Kira
Road, next door to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and the British High Commission.
(NOTE: the Uganda Museum is temporarily closed for refurbishment).
Traditional luwombo lunch is served at Entanda Cultural Initiative, Mityana western Uganda
Local food: Ugandans can EAT! The famous buffet lunch is centred
around matooke (steamed banana), a meat stew, beans and groundnut sauce. Pile
your plate high with rice, sweet potato, cassava and yam. Sample street food
favourites like rolex (omelette rolled in a chapati), muchomo roasted meat
and luwombo (usually chicken or meat, slow steamed in smoked banana leaves).
Uganda is famous for her tropical fruits: sweet pineapples, plentiful bananas,
mangos, passionfruit, guava, papaya, watermelon and sugarcane. Less common in
central Uganda but found in the downtown markets are tree tomatoes, tamarind,
oranges and soursop. Read Virtually edible – a food tour of Uganda.
Nightlife: No visit to Kampala is complete without a night out. (Don’t blame me if you
end up forgetting your real reason for visiting Uganda!)
Kasubi Tombs: explore the splendid traditional hut and meet the ancestors of long-
gone Kabakas (kings) of Buganda Kingdom. Did you know you can make cloth from
a tree? On the Experiential Trail of Buganda, watch the age-old skill of barkcloth
making, take part in a cultural dance, and learn how to play a game of omweso. Site
guides are ready to welcome you.
Royal Mile: walk along the tree-lined Royal Mile (Kabaka Anjagala) between the
Bulange (seat of the Buganda Parliament) and the Mengo (Kabaka's) Palace in the
Lubiri as you trace the footsteps of Ugandan royalty. Clans and totems are an
intrinsic part of Buganda culture. See the statues of animal totems that decorate the
Royal Mile (Kabaka Anjagala). Interpretative guides can be organised through the
Buganda Tourism and Heritage Board or at the Bulange booking office.
Also in Mengo are Rubaga and Namirembe Cathedrals.
Namugongo and the Uganda Martyrs: did you know that in June every year,
hundreds of thousands of pilgrims congregate in Namugongo? Many walk from
remote corners of East Africa to pay homage to the 22 Ugandan Christians who were
executed for their faith in 1886 at Namugongo, a modern day site of pilgrimage and
remembrance. June 3rd marks the Uganda Martyrs’ public holiday. Visit the Uganda
Martyrs’ Museum and learn the heart-wrenching yet inspiring stories of these brave
individuals. Read excerpts from letters recounting the events of 1886.
The Gaddafi Mosque: climb the minaret for undoubtedly the best views of Kampala
and admire the architectural grandeur of East Africa’s largest mosque. Female
visitors will be asked to cover their heads (headscarves are provided).
Dairy of a Muzungu and Ian Ortega at the Bahai Temple, Kampala
The Baha’i Temple: this architectural landmark can be seen from all over Kampala.
It’s a serene tree-covered hill, and the first Baha’i House of Worship in Africa. A
multidenominational Sunday service is open to all.
Click here for more of Diary of a Muzungu’s ideas on things to do in Kampala
Want to explore Uganda from Kampala for a few days or more?
Book a sunset cruise on Lake Victoria or half day sports fishing in search of Nile
Perch.
Organise a day trip from Entebbe to Ngamba Island chimpanzee sanctuary.
Laze on the sandy beach on one of Lake Victoria’s Ssese Islands.
Go birdwatching for Shoebill in Mabamba Bay.
Visiting Kampala for the first time?
Stay in Kampala for a while and your new friends will want to show you the markets and
happening nightspots. But the best way to see the city’s landmarks is on a guided tour.
Whether you have two hours to spare, or a whole day, there’s a long list of guides and tour companies who are ready to show you the best the city has to offer. A cautionary note: make sure you book with a registered guide or company.
How to tour Kampala
Given the choice, I prefer walking, ideally with a map and a guide. Being on foot gives you a chance to be spontaneous. Look up and around you, talk to people on the street. For an authentically Ugandan experience, you can even do a Kampala city tour on the back of a boda boda motorbike (but they’re not the safest, so make sure you wear a helmet and only book with a registered company).
If you’re trying to pack a lot in, you might prefer to be driven around in an air-conditioned vehicle. The choice is yours. Ready-made tours can easily be adapted to fit your interests.
Want to stop for a local luwombo lunch? Fancy an hour in Nakasero market? It’s your tour, so specify what you want.
How can Diary of a Muzungu help you?
I work with tour operators, safari companies, guides lodges and hotels across the country. If you’d like a recommendation, feel free to contact me. Alternatively, check out my Travel Directory or contact one of Uganda Tourism Board’s registered tour operators. Remember to say the muzungu sent you.
A version of this article also appears on ExploreUganda.com the official destination website for Uganda, managed by the Uganda Tourism Board.
