WINE TASTING IN ZIMBABWE? THAT AND A LOT MORE
(Posted 07th July 2015)
A recent trip to Zimbabwe to attend the annual Sanganai / Hlanganani 2015 Tourism Trade Fair in the capital Harare, brought with it the opportunity to get a fast track tours across some of the country’s primary tourism attractions and the invitation from the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority was thankfully accepted.
Three minders from ZTA and initially a group of 25 hosted buyers and a few international media boarded two busses from the Rainbow Towers. The trade show headed into its last day and the general public would no doubt throng the corridors while we headed cross country.
I had earlier on already reported about the visit to Great Zimbabwe, monuments able to rival Egypt’s sites and palaces and a reminder that Africa only ever was the Dark Continent for the European explorers while within, like at Great Zimbabwe, highly developed societies had existed nearly a thousand years ago already.
From Masvingo / Great Zimbabwe the tour then took us to Bulawayo, Zimbabwe’s second largest city where a visit to the National Museum was an absolute highlight. A wide range of exhibits showcased flora and fauna but also the pre-independence history in astonishing detail and unlike the anti-Rhodes hysteria in South Africa Zimbabwe obviously considers this part of the country’s history as an integral part of it – and why not, they won the Independence War after all.
From Bulawayo we visited Matopos where apart from a site visit to Amalinda Camp, reported about in my last feature on Zimbabwe, we were able to do a spot of Rhino Tracking on foot. Elated after a successful sighting of a female with a year old calf we all wore the little cuts and punctures made by thorns like a badge of honour.
We were also able to see further evidence of early mankind, manifested in elaborate cave paintings. Dated according to our guide between 8.000 and 12.000 years ago are these paintings a clear indicator that human live had moved from the erstwhile Cradle of Mankind in Eastern Africa further South, probably looking for favourable weather, available food sources and rich hunting grounds.
Notably were our hosts not shy to show off further parts of their colonial history when we were able to visit World’s View and Cecil Rhodes’ grave before eventually moving on. Hwange National Park was to be our next destination.
There we finally also ejected a French couple who had ended up on our bus after somehow missing their own tour with other French hosted buyers. Their regular infantile behaviour, nothing was ever good enough for them and ranting and complaining was their favourite past-time, had escalated into abuse of some of our group members culminating in name calling. In Hwange we managed to ‘reunite’ them with the group they were supposed to travel with from the start and good riddance it was, leaving 23 happy travelers from 8 African countries to enjoy the remaining few days together.
The Hwange Safari Lodge, built in the 1970’s already but kept in good shape, was our home for the night and a BBQ on the lawn around a campfire set the tone for the rest of the trip. Without the obnoxious couple we proved to be a closely knit band of fellow travelers who thoroughly enjoyed the tour ZTA had laid on for us. Unlike them we made light of sudden changes, as one should when on an invitational tour. Apart from that it also made the life of our minders easier and that paid off handsomely as they went out of their way to showcase to us the Zimbabwe we came to discover, unfiltered, close up and personal and without snipe comments, made incidentally by two people who live in Arusha of all places – the how of which will forever remain a mystery to the rest of us.
A game drive in the morning out of Hwange Safari Lodge brought us face to face with elephant, buffalo, elands, waterbuck, impalas and other game, sitting on the back of a 4×4 safari vehicle, covered with ponchos and wrapped in blankets to defeat the early morning cold. A visit to the Painted Dog Foundation rounded up the Hwange experience before time was called on our visit to that park and on we motored on towards Victoria Falls.
It is in Vic Falls where the revival of Zimbabwe’s tourism industry is perhaps most visible. Packed with conference participants, at least in our hotel where two major African conferences took place, ordinary tourists, back packers galore and of course us adding to the throng were the hotels well booked, the restaurants full – especially the acclaimed Boma – and to Bungee jump one had to wait in a queue but more about that later.
Zimbabwe’s most famous hotel after the Meikles in Harare, the Victoria Falls Hotel, presented itself from its best side and a tour around the premises showed that age, as far as a hotel is concerned, is just a number, a high number in this case of course, as long as things are kept in ship shape. The Victoria Falls Hotel was kept in ship shape and like the Amalinda Camp, Nesbitt’s Castle and later on Bushman’s Rock, this was my kind of place. Suites with a view of the gorge and on to the falls, best described as ‘opulent’ and exquisitely furnished including artefacts and memorabilia of days long gone, has this marvel survived all of Zimbabwe’s challenges unscathed and rightly today is one of the country’s most sought after hotels. Of course did we visit other places but none came close to the Victoria Falls Hotel, which left an indelible imprint on my mind and the burning desire to return and stay for a few days to enjoy the best Zimbabwean hospitality can produce.
There are a couple of things a visitor absolutely should consider doing and make budget provisions to experience them. A late afternoon ‘Sundowner Cruise’ is one of the excursions no one should miss as the sunset, looking up the river, ends up in a riot of yellow, orange and red colours. We saw elephant crossing from one island to another and when the engines were idling was the atmosphere on board almost serene, floating on one of Africa’s great rivers just a few kilometres above the majestic falls. Some of the cruisers, double and even triple deckers, offer a dinner on board, no doubt best enjoyed under a full moon while other cruises generally include drinks and snacks.
The ‘Flight of Angels’ over the falls is nothing short but spectacular, and each side of the helicopter gets a good fill of aerial views, though the left side gets the first close up look, something to consider for those signing up for the flight. Located just outside the Elephant Hills Resort is it but a walk away from one’s room and all major credit and debit cards and cash are of course accepted.
The more active part of course, the part where the adrenalin begins to flow freely and in abundance through one’s veins, is found on the bridge in no-man’s land between the two official border posts. Bungee jumping, zip lining and swinging across the gorge are a trio of activities I could not miss … it is not for me to say that this is a must do activity, as not all have the guts and dare to leap off the platform into the deep, but it is a must see for all visitors to the Victoria Falls to appreciate how some dare devils among us do the impossible, defying age and conquering their own fears, or for those who know no fear just to prove to the rest of the onlookers what great fun it is to be strapped to a rubber rope and throw oneself off the bridge.
Many in the group, and certainly by the comments received from my Twitter, Facebook and LinkedIn community, doubted I would do it but hey, I was the first off the platform, leading as I said by example and another 7 in the group followed suit, and none regretted it. The world’s largest waterfalls forms the backdrop to the jump and none is more famous around the world, and probably on more bucket lists, that this one. If anything, and again I was told that there must be a level of madness in me, a side many never saw or expected of me, the jump was too short and not deep enough, so if another record breaker comes along I will certainly try that one too, opportunity allowing.
The highlight on a personal note for me was a meeting I had with a fellow scribe, Gill Staden, someone well known to my readers of course, as she produces the ‘Livingstone bi-Weekly’ which has featured on my blog for many years now. We never did meet before and she made an extraordinary effort, considering the time and cost it take for expatriates to come over to Zimbabwe from Zambia, to meet up. A long standing promise to have tea together at the Falls was made good of and she turned out, in person, to be all I expected her to be and then some more. She, like I, made Africa her adopted home continent and we both, on first sight, knew this was our continent as much as that of our fellow Zambians – in her case – and Ugandans – in my case. We took the walk together along the abyss, incidentally wheel chair suitable along its entire length. Covered in rain coats and hooded up we both enjoyed the few hours we had to chat about a thousand things, all to do with tourism, conservation and of course, the Africa we live in and we both love.
All too soon was our time in Victoria Falls up and our fellow travelers from Zambia crossed the bridge to go home to Livingstone while the remaining 20 of us flew on an Air Zimbabwe aircraft back to Harare for the final two days.
Rainbow Towers was full that night and the next, a sign that business was obviously booming. Familiar faces welcomed us back, me getting a number for firm handshakes in the process and repeated assurances how happy my hosts were to have us here.
The following day was a trip to Bushman’s Rock on the programme, and a final eye opener that was.
An estate of some 1.400 acres, filled with wilderness, 14 hectares of vineyards, a fully-fledged vinery and a championship Polo field, apart from several cottages nestled around a main building, made all of use sit up and take notice. Wine tasting took a fair part of our visiting time and several bottles were emptied by my fellow travelers, myself opting for some grape juice though sticking my nose into the proffered glassed before passing them on. No one observed form to spit the boozy liquid into the bucket but every glass was emptied, certainly improving the mood at lunch and the following game drive around part of the estate. Look up www.bushmanrock.com / www.facebook.com/bushmanrocksafaris for added information, a haven of peace and tranquility just an hour’s drive outside Zimbabwe’s capital Harare.
Zimbabwe, by the look of it, is clawing her way back into the tourism big time and a single Visa, given without questions asked on arrival at a cost of US Dollars 30 for a wide number of nationalities, or US Dollars 50 for a UniVisa which allows to visit neighbouring Zambia too, are only some of the measures taken to make visits to the country easy. This is in stark contrast to Eastern Africa, where Uganda just doubled Visa fees to 100 US Dollars for a single entry while Kenya will after a two months grace period demand that Visa are obtained in advance, patently the wrong measure considering the country is in desperate need to get tourists back in large numbers. But then there is a difference whereby the Zimbabwe government is fully behind their tourism recovery efforts while in Eastern Africa one simply must wonder what those in government inflicting such added obstacles on their tourism sectors are really up to. Add to that the zero rating on likely terrorism attacks, which UNWTO has given Zimbabwe in their latest country review, there is some serious competition arising again further down south and with tourists having choices it remains to be seen which country will in coming years record the higher growth rates – I dare say it will be those which make visits easy and affordable and not display attitude when new Visa rules and cost are challenged.
I travelled to Harare with Kenya Airways, which offers up to three flights a day from Nairobi, some routing via Livingstone – where after take off to Harare a spectacular overflight over the Victoria Falls awaits – some routing via Lusaka and some operating nonstop. KQ uses Embraer E190’s and the occasional Boeing B737-800NG aircraft on the route. This combination allows for visits to both Zimbabwe and Zambia and a UniVisa at just 50 US Dollars, granted on arrival to most nationalities, makes a visit to this part of Africa easier than expected, certainly more hassle free and cheaper than visits to Eastern Africa after the recent changes in Visa application rules and cost.
It would not be a complete picture of course if one would not mention the challenges Zimbabwe is undergoing. Political developments and decisions in past have led to sanctions, but those have shown signs to becoming brittle at the edges and in any case have by and large only hit ordinary people as those among the elite affected now travel East instead of West. What is not true however is that Zimbabweans are rabid anti foreigners, to the contrary.
In few places I visited over the past years did more people come up to me to shake my hand, out of the blue really, than was the case during my visit to Zimbabwe. I heard dozens of assurances how welcome I was and endured question after question how I enjoyed the country and if I would come back. I did enjoy, courtesy of Belinda and Kuda of ZTA who proved to be perfect hosts and yes I will come back to see more of the country.
Current wildlife controversies apart – there is no point in not mentioning this issue as it is making headlings across the conservation media – this trip was dedicated to discovering what Zimbabwe today is like and THAT journey has only just began. No doubt many challenges need to be resolved by the industry but there is not just resilience among Zimbabwean tourism businesses, both African and White owned, but a spirit of wanting to succeed and showcase the country’s many attractions to the world. The new airport extension in Victoria Falls, where a second runway and new passenger terminals are in the final stage of completion, will no doubt bring in more direct flights to Zimbabwe’s biggest attraction, the Victoria Falls, but from there, by air and road, can all other national parks and Great Zimbabwe be reached with ease. When traveling by road, prepare for a relatively pothole free drive but one interrupted by far too many police checks. Some were seen as utterly professional, checking licenses and permits and with all in order waved out drive on, while one or two clearly had other things in mind and should be dealt with by the authorities as this is the last thing tourists want to experience.
Otherwise, if I had to rate and rank, was the accommodation ranging from just ok to very good, the latter at Elephant Hill, the food was plenty wherever we went and the people I encountered get the fullest marks for being friendly, warm and hospitable – apart from being outright honest. At least two laptops were left by some of my group members in their rooms when we left Victoria Falls and both were turned in by staff and recovered by the owners. The same happened to me at the Rainbow Hotel in Bulawayo where I had left my solar charge lamp on the window sill at the Rainbow Hotel in Bulawayo. When we got back from a morning city tour for lunch did one of the managers walk up to me and hand it over, a rare level of honesty much appreciated and rewarded, needless to say.
A big thank therefore to the people of Zimbabwe, my hosts and of course my fellow travelers, many of whom I met for the first time as strangers at the opening of the Sanganai 2015 fair and whom we parted with as friends!
For destination information click on www.zimbabwetourism.net or else check out ZTA’s Facebook page via https://www.facebook.com/ZimbabweTourismAuthorityzta
2 Responses
Thank you for the positive review on Zimbabwe. I am glad you enjoyed your visit. we are looking forward to receiving your family and friends soon.
I have always understood that the sanctions applied were to President Mugabe and certain members of the elite and not to the country of Zimbabwe and its people. I cannot understand why people always say that the sanctions are applied to the ordinary Zimbabweans – maybe swallowed propaganda????