GET TO KNOW ‘GONAREZHOU‘ – ONE OF ZIMBABWE’S LESSER KNOWN BUT NEVERTHELESS SPECTACULAR PARKS
(Posted 10th December 2016)
(Chilojo Cliffs is one of Gonarezhou National Park’s main attractions in eastern part of the park)
The article has been rebroadcast courtesy of the author Stephen Ephraem and Zimbabwe Tourism Authority. Additional pictures used with permission of ZTA.
SWEET natural songs composed and produced by wildlife welcome visitors as they pass closely knitted mopane and acacia bushes. Qualia birds churn the soprano as elephants blow the trumpets. Doves tune the alto as baboons seal the wildlife songs with bass. Hot dry climatic conditions are the order of the day. The visitors have spared their ears from the clings-and-dings of town life and have spared their noses from exhaust fumes that rock urban setups.
The above treaty is only reserved for visitors to Gonarezhou National Park. The park was declared a national park in 1975 after being established as a game reserve in the 1960s. It is managed by the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Authority (ZimParks).
Before the park was established, the area belonged to the Hlengwe people who are a constituency of the Tsonga/Shangaan in Southern Africa. Tsongas/Shangaans are spread in Gaza Province in southern part of Mozambique, northern Limpopo Province and eastern Mpumalanga Province of South Africa and south-eastern parts of Manicaland and Masvingo Provinces of Zimbabwe. To this day, the park is surrounded by Tsonga communities in Chipinge south’s Mahenye area, Chiredzi north’s Sangwe and Chiredzi south’s Matibi 2 and Sengwe areas. Tsonga/Shangaan elders still regard the park as “marhumbini ahina” (our deserted homelands).
Gonarezhou has an area of 5,053 square km making it Zimbabwe’s second largest national wildlife sanctuary after Hwange National Park which has an area of 14,600 square km. Being situated in the south-eastern part of the country where it borders South Africa and Mozambique, Gonarezhou has become part of the “peace parks” project dubbed The Great Limpopo Trans Frontier Park. The Great Limpopo project amalgamates our vast and magnificent park, South Africa’s 19,485 square km Kruger National Park and Mozambique’s 10,462 square km Limpopo National Park making the whole area 35,000square km.
The purpose of the peace park is to help market the three destinations as one so that tourists to say Kruger may end up visiting Limpopo or Gonarezhou. Also game in the three parks is allowed to roam freely within the three parks.
In Zimbabwe, Gonarezhou is least visited as compared to other smaller parks in the country. Some of the reasons for such include its remoteness from major cities and the unpredictable political instability in the eastern neighbouring country.
The name Gonarezhou is commonly translated as “place of many elephants,” although some elders in the area believe that it has much to do with early traditional herbalists who used elephant tusks as medicine storage known as “gona” in Shona language. Whatever it means, the area is full of natural treasure.
In addition to the temperatures in the South-Eastern Lowveld which range between 33 and 40 degrees Celsius during hot dry seasons, the region is infested with mosquitoes. It is advisable that visitors bring anti-malaria kits whenever touring the Lowveld. Another serious consideration is that of fuel and provisions. There are no service stations, eating houses or major retail shops in the park save for grocery and bottle stores at business centres around the park.
Gonarezhou isn’t visible when one is using the country’s major highways in the south eastern Lowveld. It’s only when one crosses one of the following three huge rivers: Runde, Mwenezi and Save that s/he is assured of his/her proximity to the park. The three rivers flow into the park at some point. Runde River and Save River flow near Gonarezhou’s eastern entry point, Chipinda Pools as Mwenezi flows near the park’s southern entry point, Mabalauta.
Chipinda Pools entry point
Chipinda Pools is the headquarters of the eastern sites and is accessible using the Ngundu-Tanganda highway. Chipinda Pools sign post is found at the entry to Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve. To reach Malilangwe entrance, a person from Chiredzi town would have travelled for approximately 24km while one from Mutare/Chipinge direction would have travelled for approximately 33km after crossing Save River at Jack Quinton Bridge. After entering Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, one has to travel for approximately 36km further off road using an earth road to reach Chipinda Pools. Chipinda’s sub region is at Chinguli.
At Chipinda Pools is where the Runde River widens. Other notable pools along the river include Pokwe, Chitove, Mwatomba and Makonde which visitors can enjoy fishing. A journey towards Runde River’s confluence with Save River takes a visitor past world’s renowned magnificent landmark of red sandstone cliffs known as Chilojo Cliffs. The 170m high cliffs which are at the south bank of the Runde River stretch for more than 30km. They can be beautifully viewed at Hlaro, Fishans and Directors campsites. Two other campsites have been established just opposite the main cliffs.
From there, one arrives at seasonal natural water pans at Tembahata and Machaniwa where bird viewing is ideal. Before it reaches the confluence with Save River, Runde boast of 7m high Chibilila Falls.
What more does the vast and magnificent park offer both at Chipinda and Mabalauta? The forthcoming second part of the article shall discuss.
THE previous article on Gonarezhou National Park attracted a lot of feedback from readers. One interesting feedback was from a South Africa based reader, Mr Zeph Noya who shared a piece history.
He submitted: “Soshangana (Manukosi Nxumalo) the Nguni king stayed at Chilojo Cliffs before proceeding to Gaza in Mozambique. The cliffs enabled Soshangana’s regiments to detect the enemy from afar. The worst and most feared enemy of Soshangana during that century was Shaka and his battalion.”
There goes history. While not disputing or endorsing Soshangana’s stay at Chilojo Cliffs, one interesting thing with our beautiful natural resources is that they are attached to some ‘heroes’ of African history. The ‘heroes’ are usually alien to features which they are credited to. This has seen natives of such lands cry foul how they become alienated from the natural ornaments found in their own land. That’s a topic for another day.
In the previous episode, we focused much on what Chipinda Pools offers. To wrap up the eastern region of the park, tourists might need to note that Chipinda pools has 4 fully-equipped self catering canvas lodges overlooking Runde River which have solar water heaters and solar lighting. There are other campsites with thatched shelters which are found along Runde River banks. Chinguli has 5 thatched shelters.
Coming to the southern part of the park, Mabalauta is the headquarters of the region. It has fascinating scenery. To access Mabalauta, one has three options, one using Tanganda Ngundu highway and two using Beitbridge-Masvingo highway.
With the rainy season in mind, a tourist using Tanganda-Ngundu highway has to travel for approximately 178km from Chiredzi town(via Mzembi (Triangle) – 36km, Mzembi-Mbizi – 52km, Mbizi-Boli/Mhlanguleni – 55km, Boli/Mhlanguleni-Mabalauta Turn Off – 12km, Mabalauta Turn Off-Mabalauta – 23km).
The one using Beitbridge-Masvingo highway from Masvingo can access Mabalauta turning off at Rutenga Business Centre. The trip would be 123km (Rutenga-Mbizi – 35km, Mbizi-Boli/Mhlanguleni – 55km, Boli/Mhlanguleni-Mabalauta Turn Off – 12km, Mabalauta Turn Off-Mabalauta – 23km).
The one from Beitbridge can access Mabalauta turning off at Mwenezi Business Centre. The trip would be 105km (Mwenezi Shops-Police – 4km, Police-Chikombedzi – 63km, Chikombedzi-Zhou – 8km, Zhou-Gonarezhou entry – 7km, Entry-Mabalauta – 23km).
The good news that recently reached us is that the Beitbridge-Chikwalakwala road which has been in bad state since 2013 received a face-lift from Beitbridge Rural District Council in partnership with ZINARA, DDF and Ministry of Transport and Infrastructural Development. When complete, tourists from Beitbridge might get an alternative route to Mabalauta region.
Mabalauta has 8 thatched fully equipped self catering lodges at Simuwini Rest Camp. The place is ideal for caravan camping. The camp is close to the Mwenezi River. Many species of wildlife including the small to the big five game can be viewed from this region. Gonarezhou’s incorporation into The Great Limpopo Trans-frontier Park enables animals to roam freely within the peace parks.
Mabalauta expects to get a boost in tourist arrivals during the regional Great Limpopo Cultural Trade Fair that is held every year at Boli Muhlanguleni Business Centre in Chiredzi South. Boli Muhlanguleni is adjacent to Gonarezhou National Park. Four countries, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique usually exhibit there. Delegates have a choice to book either at Mabalauta Camp or opt for rural tourism.
Mabalauta region is synonymous with the history of Zimbabwe’s liberation struggle. It is the area where famous nationalists were detained at the now depleted Gonakudzingwa Detention Camp just near Sango Border Post. During his visit of the area end of last year, Vice President of the Republic of Zimbabwe Phelekezela Mphoko whose guerrilla war name was Report during his detention at the camp suggested that Gonakudzingwa Detention Camp should be resuscitated as a historical monument to cater for domestic tourism.
The story of Gonarezhou can’t be complete without the mentioning of Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS). In 2010, FZS entered into a $14 million ten year partnership with ZimParks to do capacity building and management of the wildlife reserve. It also caters for the marketing of Chilojo Cliffs.
Private tourism players like Bubye Conservancy, Bubiana Conservancy, Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, Save Valley Conservancy, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Chiredzi River Conservancy, Malipati Safari Area and Manjinji Pan Sanctuary have complimented or benefitted from the existence of Gonarezhou National Park.
Gonarezhou National Park really deserves one’s holiday making.
